Using swimming pools
during a hosepipe ban

What is a Hosepipe ban?

A Temporary Use Ban (TUB) – also widely known as a Hosepipe Ban – is designed to restrict the use of water to manage demand during times of drought in the UK.   One of the categories of water use that may be prohibited during a TUB is ‘filling or maintaining a domestic swimming or paddling pool’.

However, although domestic swimming pools and swimspas are affected by this legislation, there are some exemptions under a Temporary Use Ban.  HOT TUBS; NEWLY BUILT SWIMMING POOLS AND SWIMSPAS; AND MAJORLY REFURBISHED SWIMMING POOLS AND SWIMSPAS ARE NOT TREATED AS FALLING WITHIN THE DOMESTIC SWIMMING POOL/PADDLING POOL PROHIBITION.

During a Temporary Use Ban you CAN:

• Fill or maintain a pool or swimspa where necessary in the course of its construction. Newly built swimming pools or swimspas can be filled with water.

• Fill or maintain a pool or swimspa during the course of major refurbishment. Major alterations to shape, size or to the immediate surroundings of the pool, repairs or significant leaks or the installation of a complete new liner would qualify in this category. Minor repairs or cosmetic renovation such as the replacement of tiles would not qualify.  Ideally the water from the pool to be refurbished or repaired should be retained in a temporary structure and reused if suitable.

• Backwash your swimming pool filter – however, you cannot replace water lost as a result of backwashing

• Fill or maintain a pool or swimspa using a hand-held container which is filled with water drawn from a tap.

• Fill or maintain a pool or swimspa that is designed, constructed or adapted for use in the course of a programme of medical treatment.

• Fill a hot tub – these are regarded as a bathing facility.

If the drought continues, then a water company may apply to DEFRA for a Drought Order which if applied enables the water company to take further water saving measures which may include non domestic swimming pools that are not open to the public.

Conserving Water when Running a Swimming Pool

Although the water in a swimming pool is continuously filtered, cleaned and re-used, there are areas where water losses can occur and we recommend that these should be addressed in order to conserve water.

Reduce evaporation.  Keep floating covers on the water surface whenever swimming has stopped to reduce evaporation.  This will also keep heat in the water, reducing your heating bills, and will help to minimise chemical costs.  The use of automatic pool covers such as Roldeck and Coverstar will also help to reduce evaporation.

Maintain lower pool water temperatures. This will reduce evaporation and minimise the effect of algae.  Heating costs will also be reduced.

Use OC-1 Filtration Media in your swimming pool filter.  OC-1’s huge debris retention capacity means that backwashing frequency can be reduced.¹

Install a Multicyclone.  A Multicyclone installed pre-filter will reduce the frequency of backwashing and therefore the amount of water sent to waste.¹

Stop splashing!  If pool users can reduce the amount of water splashed outside of the pool, then the amount of water lost to evaporation on the pool surround is reduced.

Consider installing rainwater harvesting tanks.  The water will need to be filtered and treated before it can be used in the pool.

If do you need to top up your swimming pool with water, then use a hand held container.  Alternatively, purchase water or hire a water bowser for quantities up to 2000 litres, or if large volumes of water are required then alternative water suppliers can be used to abstract water from an area unaffected by a ban and bring it via tanker to your pool.

Water and energy conservation for new build pools and refurbishments

When doing major refurbishment work, transfer the water from the pool into a holding tank and recycle it back into the pool when the work is complete.

For new pools, discuss the project requirements with the client and establish whether a shallower pool (1.5m) might be more appropriate.  Ensure that if diving is to be permitted the SPATA ‘cage of safety’ recommendations are followed.

Instead of a traditional swimming pool sand or glass filtration system, consider an OC-1 filtration system.  With OC-1, it is possible to achieve a greater flow of water through the filter which means that pump speeds can be reduced by around 20% giving impressive energy savings.  OC-1 also saves water as its huge debris retention capacity means that the filter can go much longer without a backwash¹ and without increasing the pressure or decreasing the flow rate.

¹NOTE: The levels of Total Dissolved Solids and Cyanuric Acid (a chlorine stabiliser used in outdoor pools) should be monitored due to the reduction in the addition of fresh water when reducing backwashing frequency.  Sanitisers such as calcium hypochlorite and sodium hypochorite do not contain cyanuric acid and could be used as an alternative to di-chlor granules or tri-chlor tablets if cyanuric acid stabiliser levels are higher than desired.

 

Relax and enjoy your pool:
Use an Autopilot

If you prefer to relax and enjoy your pool rather than to maintain it then Autopilot is for you!  Autopilot’s industry leading salt water pool systems turn ordinary salt into a self-regenerating supply of pure chlorine for pool and spa water that’s clean, clear and luxuriously soft.

Why a salt chlorine generator?

Salt is a natural element found in the earth, in our body and in our homes. It is used to season and preserve our food, rinse out contact lenses and soften our drinking water. Salt is a very economical commodity. When the ions in salt are passed over specially coated blades and induced with a low voltage electrical charge it is converted into chlorine. It is the same process that is used to convert seawater into laundry bleach. When this process is incorporated into your swimming pool you have your very own “chlorine generator”.

Do I eliminate the need to add chemicals?

The Pool Pilot® does one thing, generate chlorine. However, the purity of this chlorine has less effect on the overall water chemistry balance, therefore, LESS chemicals are needed to re balance the water. Your Pool Pilot® recommends periodic (weekly or bi-weekly) testing of stabiliser levels (30 – 60 ppm, required in outdoor pools only), Free chlorine (2 – 4 ppm for pools and 3 – 6 ppm for spas), pH (7.2 – 7.6), and salt levels (2,500 – 3,500 ppm). Since we do not affect the Total Alkalinity or Calcium Hardness, a monthly check is sufficient.

How do I add salt?

What is most important when adding salt is to brush it around until it is dissolved. This is accelerated by turning your pump on, opening the bottom drain and adding the salt over the drain, rather than walking around the perimeter while adding the salt. It is recommended that you continue to run the pump for 24 hrs so the salt can spread evenly throughout the pool.  With Granular salt, 60-70% will have dissolved before hitting bottom. The remaining salt can simply be brushed into the drain which will then complete dissolution. With all other forms of salt, it will take longer to dissolve but the same process will accelerate the dissolve rate. Simply brush the salt in a pyramid over the drain to increase dissolution.

What kind of salt can I use?

Food grade salt is recommended.  This is available in 25kg sacks from your swimming pool supplier.

How much salt do I add?

Enough for 3,000 ppm (parts per million) as a starting point. So depending on the initial salt level of your water, you only add the amount needed to establish 3,000 ppm. For new pools or freshly filled pools, the salt level will most likely be zero.  In this case, 3kg of salt for every 1m³ of pool water will establish a level 3000ppm salt.

Are there any downsides to salt chlorination?

Be aware that other equipment on your pool may not be compatible with the levels of salt needed by your salt chlorinator as salt can corrode metallic products such as heating equipment.  Your pool service engineer will be able to advise whether or not the equipment on your pool is compatible with the 3000ppm salinity that is required in order for Autopilot to work effectively.

It should also be noted that the addition of salt to the pool water increases its conductivity and consequently when being installed on older pools a thorough check of the electrical installation, particularly earth bonding, is advised.  Further information can be found in the SPATA factsheet on salt chlorinators.

Why choose an Autopilot salt chlorinator?

AutoPilot® has been the technological leader in the chlorine generation process for swimming pools since 1978. There are over a half million satisfied AutoPilot®owners worldwide. AutoPilot® sets the standard for dependability, features and performance … and has a unit to fit every need and budget.

Increased Pool Ownership Satisfaction:

-Never buy, transport and store chlorine again

-Softer, silky feeling water – Better on your skin and hair

-No more red eyes – No staining of clothing

-No chlorine odour

-Automatically solves most of your water chemistry problems

-Sanitises your pool every day – even when you’re away on holiday

Protect your pool finish investment by:

-Better water chemistry management – day in day out

-No algae growth to stain your surface

-Continuous super chlorination eliminates need for harsh chemical shocking

-Produces close to neutral pH to prevent radical shifts in water balance

Increase safety for your family:

-No handling or storage of harsh chlorine products

-Continuous in-line super chlorination guarantees healthy water

-No caustic by-products

Easier pool maintenance:

-Ease of operation – chemical regulation at your fingertips

-Economical to operate – less electricity usage than a 200 watt light

-Water balance is more stable – virtually eliminates the need for super chlorination, algaecides and other support chemicals